Ouch! Gurkha on Gurkha: Grayshott's Durbar versus Liphook's Chautari

Although now part of the same concern, there remains enough difference between the restaurants to make a comparison worthwhile, not least the geographical fact one is in Grayshott and the other in Liphook.

Factoring in the the inflated cost of petrol (ignoring the railways), for those just above the poverty line - with digital TV, membership of the local cinema and the means to afford a meal out, i.e. 20k with kids, 14k without - which is really worth the traveling too? The following 'best for...' may help you decide.

aperitifs: CHAUTARI - The Links has flourished under new management -lovely terrace too

dining room: CHAUTARI - a little more spacious and light

tables/chairs: DURBAR - there's a round table!

crockery/cuttlery: DURBAR - lovely cast iron recipticle for lentils, blue rimmed china bowls for chutneys

toilets: DURBAR - less like my Aunts

service: CHAUTARI - staff in the Durbar are pleasant and polite just less efficient(not helped by the bar which is almost out the back door)

poppadoms: TIE

chutneys: DURBAR - excellent homestyle lime and chilli chutney, better HPesque Tamarind sauce

starters: CHAUTARI - both offer Chicken Livers (Kalejo) and salt spiced Lamb nuggets (Choila) but only at Liphook can you enjoy Bhuteko Prawns, pan fried, plump and sea fresh in a mild, thin tomato sauce obliging high notes of heady coriander leaf and sultry earthiness

clay oven: CHAUTARI - a close one but the char grilled meat and fish at Liphook cannot be matched, e.g. Pahadi Kurkhura, chicken in a sour yoghurt, spear minty, green chilli strong coating

curries: TIE - never had one that hasn't been at least good. Some have been truly superior including Ameelo Jinga (high class heady, sweet and sour Prawns), Bhutuwa Lamb (in a thick, rich paste with red peppers), Khursani Kukhura (egg battered strips of chicken in a tasty dish infused with sesame oil, strangely reminiscent of pancakes with brown sugar and lemon), Khatmandu Ko Wasa (best quality stewed lamb in a hot rich, smooth curry, pepper laden with a strong undertones of red wine and acetous cardamom) as well as Monkfish in a smooth, light tomato orange sauce, that sang of several spices

vegetables: CHAUTARI - spot on Jeera Aloo - rich round waxy baby potatoes plus my favourite Aubergine dish in smoky, spicy, soy marinade

dal: DURBAR - creamy ochre yellow lentils tempered with toasty cumin seeds and garlic, Kalo dal, savoury, mild black lentils

rice: DURBAR - really fragrant rice simmered in whole milk and toasted cashews

bread: DURBAR - truly toothsome Gulio Roti's, soft buttery dough stuffed with raisin and almond paste

wine: TIE - similar wine lists, both par for the course. They tend to serve wine at the correct
temperature though

beer: DURBAR - they offer two Nepali beers not one

dessert: forget it!

freebies: none as yet!

prices: TIE - for all the above expect to pay the same whichever you're at

gurkha heritage: DURBAR - you might see a real Gurkha major (the owner)

In conclusion, if you live in Grayshott or Liphook then count yourself lucky, you've an excellent local on your threshold. If you don't then at the time of writing I'd opt for the Durbar (just!) over the Chautari. Why? For all aforementioned differentials, there's simply more choice on the menu.

Gurkha Durbar - Grayshott, 10/1/08

I approve of the large portions of rice the Gurkha serve, always need it. A man sized helpling of lovely audente basmati did more than soak up my curry. What an excellent meal it was! Especially as it turned out not to cost a penny (no such thing as a free lunch but there is such a thing as a free dinner, if its curry and its eaten with my Godfather – just don’t all ask at once!!).

Poleko Maccha to start – that’s a char grilled salmon fillet to the laity, coated in a subtle piquant marinade, nutritious and delicious, succeeded by Khatmandu Ko Wasa. Sounds like a fatal martial arts maneuver but if executed in the Durbar turns out to be best quality stewed lamb in a hot rich, smooth curry, pepper laden with a strong undertones of red wine and acetous cardamom. Mis Mas Tarkari, lightly fried vegetables, fresh with coriander was perfect, veg which you had to bite through rather than slurp (overcooking legumes is endemic in lesser curry joints). All in all as near faultless perfection as I’m likely to enjoy in a purveyor of eastern cuisine.

Willp2328visit: 9/10

Gurkha Durbar - Grayshott

The Petersfield Curry Club began its tenth year (?) with a visit to the roundly approved Gurkha Durbar. 15 of us, a XV, fitting given the clubs Rugby origins. For my part I’d only been to Grayshott once before to help Nan buy a carpet (my advice was only bought by the promise of an ice cream) so it was mostly new to me.

Aperitifs in the ‘Lounge Bar’ of the Fox And Pelican, rather plush, then up the road to the restaurant. PLACE is small and immaculate inside, pristine white walls draped with occasional Gurkha green flags, varnished wooden floor you could see your reflection in. In John’s absence Trevor fixed the menu and drinks were ordered.

Poppadoms came with mint yoghurt dip, mango chutney and something vaguely reminiscent of Branston pickle (Tamarind chutney ed!). We were SERVED very well. 4 starter platters between us, including deliciously moist Aloo Khaja (potato cakes with carrots, peas, ginger) as well as Chicken Liver (aka Kalejo Bhutuwa) that combined superbly with sweet roast red peppers and onion. Rather too salty char-grilled lamb only made into 50% of mouths, Sinka Prawn and the famous Momo were enjoyed by all. The main course included a couple of clay oven dishes, Chicken and Lamb (thumbs up), one each of several others, stand outs some of the milder dishes this time, Rato Kukhura, CTM cum Rezala, sweet, nutty, resplendent orange and Mayalu Khasi, Lamb like a velvety Korma. I’m a stickler for Veg and Aloo delivered super taste, Aloo Tama Bodi, bamboo shoots, black eyed beans and spuds, lovely mountain homestyle flavour to savour. Rice and Naans too…all at great value. PRICES are keen, not that the curry club care about menus just the FOOD which happened to be extremely good. Afterward, everyone invited back to Grayshott social club feeling well satisfied but by no means stuffed, besides the season has passed for stuffin’ (Turkeys everywhere breathed a collective sigh of relief).

...On returning for my 23rd birthday, enjoyed slow paced evening in relative peace and calm. Informed by one waiter that in 2 weeks since Telegraph review restaurant has been fully booked, Monday the first quiet night. Glad of it? Unlikely, hard work second nature to a Gurkha.
After exchange of pleasantries our party of 6 set about ordering. House White, Pinot Grigio, a safe companion to curry meals, light, crisp, cutting through the spices, hitting top notes. Starters included aforementioned potato cakes (Aloo Khaja) and chicken livers (Kalejo Bhutuwa), one offering of deep fried Aubergine. Sensible portions - countless curry houses forget these are only supposed to be ‘appetisers’ - simple, fresh presentation. Chicken livers good depth and richness of flavour. Mains too many to mention. I chose Monkfish in a smooth, light tomato orange sauce, that sang of several spices, accompanied by a moist saffron gold rice, creamy homestyle black lentils (Kalo Daal), delicious and mild, as well as cumin spiced fried potatoes (Aloo Jeera), bit on the floury side.

...Aloo Jeera part of their Petersfield curry club selection third time around. This time the dish was executed perfectly, indicative of a restaurant going from strength to strength (like Englands Rugby World Cup team). We thoroughly enjoyed the same starter platter as in January. Choila one slight dud then was last night a highlight. Baby pieces of exquisite lamb, gorgeously salted with a smooth soft aftertaste of mustard and ripe spring onion. Momo, lovely, sweet, herby mince in fatty steamed dumplings, potato cakes, sinka prawn and chicken livers too. Mains, all delicious, no criticism, no need to be churlish. Largely medium to medium hot. Lamb curried 3 different ways. With lentils, rich, thick, hints of lemon. With peas and in a luxurious pink orange gravy resounding of ginger and garlic. Other treats included a piece of char grilled lamb, clay oven chicken each, 2 chicken curries in typical Nepalese style with tomato based sauce aromatic sauces, and 1 I missed. Mixed Vegetables, delicately treated, sumptuously buttery, Aloo Chana and Saag Aloo, Aloo Jeera both with firm starchy new potaoes simply added to the enjoyment.

...Eating with family friends from Fleet, almost every table (including ours) reserved. We were one of the first groups in, one of the last to leave. Another commendable meal. All of us enjoyed something different. A mild curry here, a clay oven dish there: on my left Mikey braved Tarai Kukhura, piquant, hot with chilli resin and on my right Dougie considered the 17 different spices in his Sherpa Lamb – I detected 7 or 8 though the bitter aroma of cloves was perhaps too predominant. However, little faulting the gorgeous Choila I had to start, more gingery than a fortnight previous, Kukhura Sag, a tangy, moist preparation of chicken and spinach or Pahelo Dal, yellow lentils, tempered with sulphurous garlic and coarse sweetness of cumin seed. Mushroom rice was perfectly acceptable too.

In SUMMARY the Gurkha Dubar is a fairly unique purveyor of ethnic cuisine, where one can enjoy dishes with individual character. Everything is beautifully presented and refreshingly moreish.

Willp2328 score: 8/10