Gandhi - Kingston Road, Portsmouth

2 hours in the Odeon watching Ratatouille gave Tim, my brother and I an appetite. As we filed out of the cinema 8 o’clock was fast approaching, high time for food. There’s a multitude of ethnic eateries to chose from in North End though on this occasion I’d booked a table at Gandhi in advance.

The PLACE has been a stalwart on the restaurant scene in Pompey but recently received a make over. It’s very slick, bronze fittings, cushy booths with white gold upholstery and a team of black clad waiters who (shock horror) realise that when one makes a reservation one expects a table made ready. So it was that we were led to ours. SERVICE was effecient, albeit a little robotic.

First job was to sort drinks and poppadoms etc. A decent Chardonnay, tap water, mango chutney aromatic with a little cardamom – mint sauce, onion salad. Despite opulent appearances PRICES are modest.

The menu offers FOOD with a difference. Specials - unrecognisable from trad curry house fare – made me suspicious (I don’t like fusion), so I chose Lamb Korai, cinnamon spiced pilau rice and bhindi. The Korai was a thick, rich and fibrous tomato based curry, plummy, salty with musky bitterness of curry leaves and fenugreek. The Bhindi, buttery and charred with crispy fried onions. A hearty meal had began with Beguni Murgh. Melt in mouth diced chicken wrapped and pinned inside an aubergine slice. Packed with flavour – eager spring onions, savoury sweet green pepper and a creeping heat from shredded chillies, tangy coriander.

...My first experience of Gandhi was good. The second occured the following Friday, after a few hours pub philosophy on Nationalism. Had another table booked for 3. Sat opposite me, Simon and Emma. Ordered Crab Malabar, moist orange brown patties on a very clean plate, plenty of meat but a touch briney. Then came a Lamb Dhansak served in a white boat. Well textured lentil sauce, plenty of fenugreek, sour with lemon juice sweetened with grainy palm sugar. Impressed by Brinjal Bhajee. Aubergine quartered lengthways, tasty eggy flesh augmented by considerate spicing. Sampled Emmas Biriani, excellent smooth livery duck (all agreed on high quality of meat/poultry) accompanied by too great a serving of an average Vegetable Curry as well as Simons Rajestani curry which was wet, coconutty, possessing a sour limey aftertaste in part derived from green finger chillies.

...Thoughts of an evening spent watching another labourious England football friendly proved the cue to visit Ghandi a third time, still glamourous enough for WAG's. Early April showers (in March) had made the extra time to walk to Blue Cobra an unattractive proposition.

A decent Lamb Bhuna was tanic, like a French Stew (a Bourguignon?) redolent of red wine soaked meat, bittersweet cloves, pervasive fenugreek, pungent curry leaf. Nutty Chana Masala, suffered from burnt onions which imparted a charred taste while a starter of mussels in their shells, garnished with rice was unexceptional and underwhelming flavour wise. Although I felt queasily full on leaving my sisters really enjoyed their meal (a mixed biriani and lamb korai) both of which are very good.

In SUMMARY Ghandi is one of the better 'Indians' in Pompey though not the best .

FOOD: 3.5
SERVICE: 3
AMBIENCE: 3
VALUE: 3


Willp2328score: 6.5/10

Everest Spice - Kingston Road, Portsmouth

The tiny Everest Spice is owned by a former employee of the Nepalese tourist board. His description of Portsmouth, an 'historic city famous for its beautiful beaches' belies this. With me to indulge in a spot of food tourism, Dave, Ian and Dave all from Bridgend, 'famous for its suicide rate'.

Sekuwa - large lumps of clay oven chicken brushed with a light, savoury, mellow yellow coating of curry powder, tumeric and a hint of lemon well complemented by a Nepalese achar (pickle) made for a highly promising start to our meal.

Next Sherpa Kurkhura (or Gurkha Chicken*) included more hulking pieces of poultry in a tomato sauce pungent with curry leaves, given some bite by spring onion and a green chilli or two. A side order 'Aloo Tama', used whole slices of pickled (tinned) bamboo shoot meaning the soap like radishy taste rather overawed the potato based preperation.

Dave had a 'moment' mid way through his Mayalu - a mustard coloured nutty,creamy curry with...flabby, raw pieces of chicken...! His face turned a deathly white, his voice broke, I could hear his insides screaming 'aaaaarrrggghhh!' However, a few circumspect prods with a fork revealed the secret ingredient to be Lychee. 'What's a Lychee?' asks Dave, fresh from a trip to the orient, clearly he's never studied the desert menu in a Anglo Chinese joint before.

We'd no time for desert as football half times were up so left after paying £20 a head (including 6 beers, standard poppadoms and dips). In summary, Everest Spice was decent. I may return

*waiter may have misunderstood my order. Everest Spice's version of the Himalayan staple is far removed from Gurkha Dubars rendering of the same.

FOOD (& DRINK): 3
VALUE: 3
SERVICE: 3
AMBIENCE: 3

Willp2328score: 6/10

Paradise Balti – Petersfield, 15/3/08

For a fix (not that I’m really in need) the Paradise suits me fine. It did ok for Aaran, Rich and I on a spontaneous Saturday night visit (alright I did book…but only 5 hours in advance!).

Fish Tikka, 3 hunks of lovely succulent Trout in a honeyed crispy charred crust was terrific at an uber reasonable 2.95. Lamb Goanes, a smooth, sweet, sour curry with tobasco flavour while agreeable enough tasted a little one dimensional and carried an initial burning sensation.

I’ve never been convinced by the execution of their vegetable dishes and an olive oily Aubergine Bhajee did little to change feelings. However, good breads and excellent rice made up for this.

The staff looked a little jaded but were quiet, unassuming and cordial as always despite being very busy – the place does a roaring takeaway trade. The kitchen resisted the urge to rush (a good thing) and we were served late, yet in the cosy confines happy to wait.

FOOD (& DRINK): 3
VALUE: 3
SERVICE: 4
AMBIENCE: 3

Willp2328 rating: 6.5/10

Jaipur - Southsea, 8/3/08

It had been a long afternoon. Manchester United scraped past Portsmouth in the FA Cup (what a penalty save from Ferdinand and Scholesy’s last gasp winner, well!) while England laboured to victory at Murrayfield (Wilkson was inspired!). At least that’s what friends attending my birthday celebrations were obliged to pretend.

Pompey was buzzing, strange as their team lost earlier in the day, but then city is an enigma. We escaped the boisterous crowds, went to Jaipur. A lovely long evening was enjoyed, much hilarity, terrific curry. Starters arrrive as appetising portions leaving room for the excellent main courses. I had ‘parsi style fried chicken’ out of curiosity really, on a previous visit I’m sure the waiter mumbled it was ‘like KFC’ * – if so I can see his reasoning, two bread crumbed chicken drumsticks were pleasant but not remotely indian. However, Hyderbadi Lamb Hara Masala was fairly authentic and totally delicious. The sauce was smooth and creamy with coconut, rich with almond and piquant with mint plus the kitchen cooks meat very well. A sumptuous Dum Bhindi, long green fingers of okra stewed in curd and tangy onions and decent pilau embellished things accompanied by a bottle of refreshing Rose with rhubarb custard flavours. A firm favourite.

* presumably Kentucky fried chicken as opposed to Albert Road equivalent Kens fried chicken

FOOD (& DRINK): 4
VALUE: 4
SERVICE: 4
AMBIENCE: 3

Willp2328 rating: 7.5/10

Madhuban - Liss, 12/3/08

It had been at least 3 years since the PFCC patronised the Madhuban. Plans for a February return were postponed due to the Miah brothers refurbishment. And what a change they have wrought! The House colours once rich gold and royal blue are now deep maroon and off white, the dining room, a slick and airy rectangle is certainly more spacious than the cosy L shaped den of before.

That said our table ended crammed with dishes, some new additions to the time honoured menu, reprinted and updated. One such, a brilliant tart and grapefruity Lamb Shatkora accompanied by an earthy dal. Of the familiar, Jalfrezi was as sly, hot and delicious as ever with slabs of tender, salty duck and the Madhubans saffron yellow pilau remains the best.

A woody, aromatic King Prawn curry with cinnamon and cardamom as well as mixed vegetables were pleasant and though the Madhuban Special was mild and in truth bland our starter platter comprising well spiced lamb and chicken kebabs, onion bhajis, keema khumbi (breadcrumbed mushroom cups stuffed with lovely stodgy mince) arranged around a serving of superlative chicken chat was very good.

Although a nondescript Wednesday evening we were surrounded. Success breeds success and the team have built upon reliable, sometimes excellent cuisine, vivacious, assured service (no clammy handshakes, abstract mutterings) and an established reputation. No wonder their name is a byword locally for fine and proper curry.

FOOD: 4
SERVICE: 4
AMBIENCE: 4
VALUE: 4 (prices have risen a smidgen but are still the most reasonable around)

Willp2328score: 8/10

Shampan - Brick Lane, London

Shampan is one of the best houses in trendy Banglatown. I feel I can safely say this despite only one visit last Saturday. It was full to the brim and buzzing by 7.30, looked to have quite a high turnover. As four of us sat munching on poppadoms, including a dense sweet and mellow coconut chutney it seemed another earth tremor had moved our table a full 3 feet! It was actually the genial head waiter with an audacity you almost had to admire though in fairness he and his staff were superbly efficient all evening.

Dishes arrived quickly but not too quickly. The kitchen’s interpretation of Aloo Chop turned out to be a gorgeous potato ball stuffed with cheesy mash and succulent shreds of baked lamb. One of their Bangladeshi speciality curries - ‘Rezala’ - was very flavoursome, citrussy and hot with juicy green finger chillies. Lamb Passanda was spot on, nutty with a hint of red wine. Among the assorted vegetable sides, Shatkora Dal, liquid and limey with earthy cumin was good, ditto a Sag Paneer, creamy cubes of curd in a rich gooey sauce blended with spinach. Bombay Potatoes were so much better than the they often are, coated in tangy tomato paste and roast chilli powder. Tasty pilau too!

In summary the place offers distinctly flavoured curries at fair prices (71 pounds for poppadoms, chutneys, 4 starters, 4 mains, 3 sides, 3 rice, 2 breads, 2 cobras) served smartly in a functionable dining room. They must do well. Not only does the corner house location mean they’ve two shop fronts but they haven’t a pimp to drag in floaters. Rather impressive.

FOOD (& DRINK): 5
VALUE: 4
SERVICE: 3
AMBIENCE: 4

Willp2328 rating: 8/10

Jaipur - Southsea, 29/2/08

Mary and Dave couldn't make up their minds after I'd generously offered them a choice so we tossed a coin. It came up tails, so we headed back up Albert Road to Jaipur instead of trying Curry Naz for the first time.

I began with a highly spiced garlicky Shami kebab. Then Lamb Kohlapuri, a rich, roasty, thick curry with a twist of chilli powder.

Unusual vegetable dishes mark the restaurant out from the run of the mill indians. On this occasion a bowl of boiled runner beans tossed with grated coconut, mustard and cumin seeds made for an interesting if rather insubstantial addition. Staff sweet as ever.

At the time of writing they’ve an incredibly reasonable ‘Banquet offer’ available which allows you the works, including indian desserts for 11 pounds.

FOOD (& DRINK): 4
VALUE: 4
SERVICE: 4
AMBIENCE: 3

Willp2328 rating: 7.5/10

Shapla - Alresford, 5/3/08

In general really good indian cuisine should produce a slowly intoxicating blend of flavours that twinge the taste buds, tantalise the tip of the tongue and tingle in the back of the mouth. Shapla's kitchen consistently serves up dishes which produce these very taste sensations, even if the poppadoms were, on this occasion, stale.

Salmon Shapla, a subtly charred, spicy, fishy fillet served on drainpipe plate with tamarind jam was an ideal appetiser. Lamb Sag, hearty and robust, expertly treated with cumin, coriander as well as fenugreek to bring out the deep savoury flavour of the spinach was excellent. Similarly their Chana Masala, buttery, a touch salty with nutty undertones and a trace of musky tumeric. The Biryiani must of been special as Dad really enjoyed it and he's not one to get made up over curry.

No wonder then all 5 of us enjoyed our food. Tim's Murgh Rossa and Mum's Methi Chicken were reportedly 'really nice' and Paula's starter Jinga Peshwari (2 king prawns coated in a thick cashew/almond paste) looked delectable - I'll have that next time!

FOOD (& DRINK): 5

VALUE: 4

SERVICE: 3

AMBIENCE: 4

Willp2328score: 8/10